The Quiet Majesty of O'Melveny Park

Photo: Sam Roberts

By Deborah K. Swanson Patrick

As a child growing up in the San Fernando Valley, I rode horses and played outside. After life moved me to other parts of the Los Angeles basin, I only drove through the valley on the way to other places, occasionally visiting an old neighborhood to see what time had wrought. I was swallowed by the city until I moved to the foothills, where canyons, trails, and waterfalls lie within minutes of my home. I'm hooked. I walk whenever I need peace and inspiration.

So it was a pleasure to discover O'Melveny Park, formerly a working ranch, hidden in plain view of Granada Hills. The park surrounds the Bee Canyon watershed and abuts the Santa Susana mountain range below Oat Mountain. As a kid, I didn't know any local mountains had names.

Photo: Sam Roberts

On an early February day, my husband, our energetic 12-year-old "pup," and I entered the park gates. The sun was warm, though evening rain threatened. The first of the park's many surprises was a beautiful grove of a few dozen grapefruit trees ripe with bright yellow fruit-tempting on a day so warm. The grove is a remnant of CJ Ranch, which attorney John O'Melveny ran for 32 years. In 1973, The Trust for Public Land protected 672 acres of the ranch-the organization's first success in land conservation. Though the high canyon walls belie its size, O'Melveny Park is one of Los Angeles County's biggest parks, second only to Griffith Park. One trail goes 2.1 miles, and another goes way beyond the park boundaries.

As we ambled along the wide path bordered by equestrian-style white fences and a low railing that doubled as a well-used children's balance beam, soothing chimes began a dulcet song in the breeze, adding magic to the quiet. A handful of people were visiting-two were having lunch at one of the dozens of nearly pristine picnic tables, while others were walking dogs, jogging, or playing hide-and-seek and soccer in the expansive meadow.

The breeze fluttered the eucalyptus leaves, sending their scent along the path on this nearly perfect afternoon. The tree frogs greeted us as we approached the Mission Point trail, the scent of sage and chaparral recalling the time of cowboys and lords of the Spanish land grants.

The trail quickly narrowed into a gully with brush growing in some places. At first, the steep walls looked insurmountable, but our pup had no trouble leading us up the manageable grade. As we ascended, small planes and private jets appeared in the gaps between the peaks, creating a startling juxtaposition. Contrails from large jets floated above the valley until they dissolved in the breeze.

Photo: Sam Roberts

We came to a small clearing with a stunning view of the valley, including the Van Norman reservoir and the distinctive Nethercutt Museum of vintage cars. As we headed farther up, the trail got trickier but the sight of a child perched in a huge, bare tree overlooking the valley motivated us to continue. We reached what turned out to be a family of kids climbing and sitting in the tree to get their own view of the world. I heard one tell her mom, "If we had a tree like this in our backyard, I'd sit in it and read all day." Now that's inspiration.

We rested there, scanned the vista, and then made our way down, the tree frogs wishing us farewell.

Posted 5/2007